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Apr -May 2003 Issue 
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Say cheese!

Dr T Kuchroo and Trupti Bhat present cheese in its many splendoured hues and seek to entice both the aficionado and the amateur

From the soft, stringy variety used on pizzas to the just-a-tear-away single slices used in sandwiches, the popularity of the myriad varieties of this nutritious milk form is due to the significant developments in the technology of cheese production. Their flavours, aromas and textures depend on the ingredients used, the kind of bacterial environment and its age. While the basic ingredient is milk and the initial method of production is common to all forms of natural cheese, the final treatment determines the kind and quality of cheese that is produced.

The underlying process involves incubation of milk after adding a starter to it, followed by the addition of rennin, an enzyme that causes the incubated milk to form lumps known as curds. A considerable amount of whey is also produced simultaneously. Cheese makers vary the curd-whey ratio to produce a variety of cheese textures.

Once the curd consistency has been determined, the mixture is heated, squeezed, twisted, pulled or kneaded to refine the cheese's texture. Mozzarella curds are chopped and shredded, thrown in hot water, kneaded and stretched, cooked in hot water once again, then shaped and thrown in cold water for preservation. When the desired consistency is achieved, the curds are patted into cheese moulds and salted.

The most important stage in cheese production is the ripening stage. Once the cheese has settled into moulds, it is left in controlled environments to age. Natural microbes begin to hatch within the cheese, giving it its special flavours. It is during this stage that Swiss cheese develops its characteristic holes, as bacteria cause gases within the cheese to burst.

Other cheeses, like Gorgonzola, are deliberately smeared with bacteria to develop a tart flavour. Roquefort is aged only in the limestone caves of Mount Combalou in France. The environment of the cave is key to the cheese's tangy flavour, and no other cheese maker outside the region can legally say to make the famous Roquefort.

The typical kinds of natural cheese are – fresh or unripened, soft, semi-soft, firm or hard. Commonly known fresh cheeses include cream cheese, Mozzarella and Feta.

These cheeses are usually light and creamy, but they perish quickly due to their high liquid content. Brie and Camembert are soft cheeses and can be distinguished from unripened cheese by their thin, edible skin.

The popular Gouda and Gorgonzola cheese fall into the semi-soft category. Semi-soft cheese have firmer textures ranging from crumbly to sliceable. They usually have no skins, but are often preserved in inedible wax casings.

Firm cheese is the most popular. Cheddar, Colby, Swiss and Monterey Jack all belong to this variety.

The final category, hard cheese, includes varieties of cheese that have been aged so long that the natural moisture has been allowed to evaporate. The cheese are not necessarily dry, however. Well known hard cheese include Parmesan and Asiago. These are so hard they are nearly impossible to slice, and most are grated for use in cooking.

Some varieties of cheese do not fall into any of the five categories because they are not classified as natural cheese. Several different types of cheese are blended together with flavourings and emulsifiers to create a variety which is more consistent in texture. These types of processed cheese are not considered of the highest quality.

Regardless of the kind, cheese production is a near science and if the wrong bacteria are allowed to flourish, the cheese can do more harm than good. In today's age, only pasteurised milk is used in cheese production to ensure a significant reduction in contamination.

New kinds of cheese

Groundnut cheese
Groundnut cheese is a novelty that may compete in price and quality with animal cheese. Cheese-like products have been made out of a protein extract from the groundnut just as natural cheese is made from cow's milk.

It has good quality protein, is easily prepared and is low in cost. It is being used to feed undernourished groups in the developing countries. In India, a processed cheese spread has been prepared from groundnut protein based toned milk in India. It has a smooth consistency and milky flavour.

The flavour and other organoleptic qualities are comparable with the standard cheese. Groundnut milk can be prepared by soaking kernels in one per cent sodium bicarbonate solution for 16 to 18 hours, drain off the water and grind the kernels in an aqueous medium. Steep the wet mass for 4 to 5 hour and filter through cheesecloth to remove the product.

In India groundnut milk extended with buffalo milk is commercially marketed by the brand name Miltone.Groundnut milk can be used in the preparation of yogurt like products, ice cream and other products. The steps in the preparation of groundnut milk are detailed in the flowchart.                                     

Soy cheese
Soymilk is obtained from pressing water through crushed, cooked soybeans. Soy cheese may be made from tofu, or soymilk, or a combination of soymilk with tofu and other soy protein extracts. Soy Cheese comes in a variety of hard and soft forms and in several flavours.

The detailed process of soy cheese production is described below:

Raw soybeans are soaked in water overnight. After draining, the beans are then pulverised as a small quantity of boiling water is poured over them. The resultant mash will have the consistency of mashed potatoes.

The mash is ladled into boiling water, like dumplings, and allowed to boil gently for about 10 minutes. This stage of the process is crucial because a certain enzyme in the bean is broken down during this period. The worry is that if....

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